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Greenhouse construction

Discussion in 'Growing Areas' started by mrbreeze, Aug 2, 2012.

  1. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Anglican Supporting Member

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    Thought y'all might like to see the progress so far. I first had to remove some japanese maples and relocate them.


    Then they put in the forms and drains.

    View through the window after the pour and you can see the water line, gas line, and electric rough-in if you look close enough.
    Framing begins. Only the west wall and roof will be 3-wall poly. The other walls won't get any meaningful light so there was no point in putting expensive poly on them.

    Exterior wood panels and electric going in and the roof frame starts. I decided to change to 6' roof rafters instead of the 8' that I'd planned. It would have been something like 14' tall with the 8's and I worried about it being too tall.

    You can see the framing for the door and one of the two side vents. Hopefully i'll pay for a swamp cooler on friday and they'll pick it up monday. Not sure when the plastic sheets will arrive but soon I hope. The electrician still has some work to do putting in outlets and when it cools off some he'll get into the attic and string a wire to actually get the electricity to the gh. The walls are 8' on a 1' slab so it definitely seems tall, which is good. More later...
    greenhouseConstruction 019.jpg greenhouseConstruction 022.jpg greenhouseConstruction 021.jpg greenhouseConstruction 023.jpg greenhouseConstruction 026.jpg greenhouseConstruction 025.jpg greenhouseConstruction 029.jpg greenhouseConstruction 027.jpg greenhouseConstruction 028.jpg
     
  2. Uluwehi

    Uluwehi angraecoids, dendrobiums and more Supporting Member

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    Wow, this is really exciting. I am so happy you are finally going to have a greenhouse! :D
     
  3. Reyna

    Reyna Orchid Obsessed Supporting Member

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    That is so exciting! It is a dream come true to get a greenhouse. Congrats and keep us posted as construction continues.
     
  4. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks for the update. It really is going to happen!!
     
  5. KellyW

    KellyW Orchid wonk Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Very nice. Congrats. You must have gotten the water supply issue resolved?
     
  6. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Anglican Supporting Member

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    Yes I did. They had to tap into the main house water supply in the front yard by the meter and use a backhoe to dig down to the line. It must have been at least ten feet deep. Then a trench was dug across the front, down the side, and into the back for the line. $850 later (including a gas line) I had water. I also lost almost all the water pressure to my kitchen sink in the process but that has since been resolved. Did I mention that my tap water isn't really suitable for long-term orchid use? TDS is usually over 350ppm. :rolleyes:
     
  7. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    We can talk about RO once you are up and running.:D
     
  8. T. migratoris

    T. migratoris Active Member

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    While plumbing for gas don't forget to size the gas line to accommodate a generator and be sure to provide a stub.
     
  9. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Anglican Supporting Member

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    The stub is already in. It is a 3/4" line and the heater will require 1/2" so i'll have to get a reducer. I really hope that I won't need a generator. The times when power goes out tend to be in the spring as a result of violent storms and it usually isn't too hot at those times (course 'hot' is quite relative). So anyway if the power goes out I'm hoping the passive vents will be enough until it comes back on. The heater won't require electricity so if the power goes out in the winter it shouldn't be a problem.
     
  10. Reyna

    Reyna Orchid Obsessed Supporting Member

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    Who needs water in the kitchen so long as the orchids have some. :D It is all a matter of perspective.

    All these hassles and headaches will be worth it when you have a greenhouse. It is worth the effort to do it right -- water, gas etc etc. You will need all of it. And an RO system is pretty simple to install once you have the rest set up.

    My orchids have RO water -- but my children do not. Hmmm -- what I was I saying about perspective?
     
  11. Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    When considering RO, don't overlook space for a storage tank. A 100 gpd unit at full capacity (77°F & 65 psi inlet water) puts out a bit over a cup of pure water a minute, which is hardly enough to water with.

    It would also be wise to install the tank - or at least put it inside the structure - before the walls are up. many decent sized tanks won't fit through the door.
     
  12. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Anglican Supporting Member

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    I currently use 5-gallon buckets. And for rainwater I use several large plastic trashcans. I like the Brute brand although they're not cheap. I'll probably just use one of those for a 'tank'.
     
  13. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    I use 50-55 gallon barrels that I get from a salvage yard. They have been used for food products and here cost about 15 to $25. You can connect whatever you choose with a siphon tube/hose as long as the hose ends go down to the bottom of both barrels. I have about 8 or 9 together. The first four I hooked together at the bottom with through bulkhead fittings and high pressure hose. Of course, you can't move one without draining all of them. If just added as I need. If you don't have enough capacity to fill your holding tank as much as you need with 1 membrane, it is very, very easy to add more to increase your output capacity. But it is best to have extra holding capacity.
     
  14. keithrs

    keithrs Member

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    I have two trash cans and like Marni, I have bulk head fittings. But instead of connecting them together, I run each can through ball valves into unions then into a manifold that gos to shallow well pump. This way I can drain the can and disconect it from the system very easily to clean them. My ro system has two 100 gpd membranes... One for each can with float valves. Works well.... I can add fertilizer in one can without having to mix two cans. I also airate them and add aquarium heaters in the cooler months to break the chill. If I water a lot then I have to remember to unplug the heaters intel the cans are full.
     
  15. T. migratoris

    T. migratoris Active Member

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    Great ideas from others.

    I think I've posted this before Mike. In series (recall that I have muni water): carbon block filter, sediment filter, basin with float valve at inlet, diaphragm pump with pressure switch (40-60 psi) that draws water from the basin, discharge tubing to a watering wand (not shown). Works like a dream.


    Controls 4 sm.jpg
     
  16. Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    Back before I installed a larger tank and a stand-alone pump, I used two 55-gallon drums like Marni (free from my local car wash), and built a 4x4 stand so one could be elevated above the other. The upper tanks had a float valve so the RO would be shut off when it was full, and a spigot on the bottom.

    When needed, I would fill the lower one from the upper (which would automatically refill), mix my 55 gallons of fertilizer solution, and had a submersible pump connected to a garden hose for watering.
     
  17. CJWatson

    CJWatson Member

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    Mike, how big is your GH again?
     
  18. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Anglican Supporting Member

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    It will be 8' wide by 16' long with 8' tall walls and roof rafters that are 6' long which makes it somwhere around 12' tall at the peak more or less. Not nearly big enough but about as big as the site can handle.
     
  19. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    And how is it going?
     
  20. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Anglican Supporting Member

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    The builders haven't done anything to speak of this week. We're waiting for poly sheets to come in and the electrician had to finish his part. So hopefully next week they'll keep moving. The roof is framed in but that's about the only difference since the last picture I posted. I'll try to snap a pic of it. Need to call the plastic distributor and find out if the sheets have arrived yet. I also need to pick up the swamp cooler or get the contractors to get it. It won't fit in my car.

    Here's a question. The drains are connected to some flexible pipe with holes kind of like the type used for septic systems (but bigger). It hasn't been dug in yet and I was thinking it might be a good idea to wrap those pipes in weed barrier fabric to keep dirt from getting in and to limit roots from getting in. I can imagine that there will be no good way to clean those pipes out once they're burried if the drainage system should happen to get plugged up. Any issues with that idea?