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My "cool" growing area

Discussion in 'Growing Areas' started by goods, Jan 14, 2012.

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  1. Jan 26, 2012 #21
    Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Goods, I do grow many of my oxyglossums at 55/56, but have moved the D cuthbertsonii, D vexillarius to the cooler house which is 50 at night. They are doing well. Violaceum, pentapterum, cyanocentrum, masarangense, laevifolium, prasinum and subuliferum all do better at the 55/56 night.
     
  2. Jan 26, 2012 #22
    goods

    goods Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks for all the replies! As an update, I have drilled a hole and mounted a computer fan for fresh air to enter. It's set on a timer to come on 15 minutes an hour from 10 PM to 12 PM and then constantly in the afternoon. I didn't think of the hole to depressurize though. I'll have to do that.

    Marni, do you think I could do what Tom suggested and vary by the seasons and be able to grow a mixture of the two groups you posted or would I be better off sticking to one or the other in this single environment?
     
  3. Jan 26, 2012 #23
    Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Goods, when I only had one temperature range to work with it was 52/53 and most did fine. D prasinum was terrible and laevifolium wasn't that happy either, but it did live and occasionally bloom. I would go there as a good compromise on the temperature. I don't intentionally vary the temperature by the season, but I'm not growing in a closed system. There is some difference in the temperatures. It might work to have seasonal variation. I know a grower who does VERY well with the oxyglossums under lights and his temperatures are very similar summer and winter since he lives in the SF fog belt where summers are cold. I looked up D cuthbertsonii in Baker's Dendrobium book and the average winter minimum varies from 50 to 52 over the 12 months and the average day time temperature is 72 to 74 for all months except July which is 78F. If you don't have Baker's book, you might check the species you are interested in on www.orchidculture.com. Culture sheets are less than $1 each. His temperature charts don't tell the whole story some times, but they are a very good place to start. I'm sure you can find a good range for a variety of species in the group.
     
  4. Jan 26, 2012 #24
    goods

    goods Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Ok thanks for all the help Marni. Is there a certain species of the ones you listed that you recommend to begin with? Also, I sent you a PM.
     
  5. Feb 9, 2012 #25
    flyingSquirrel

    flyingSquirrel Member

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    Any updates :)
     
  6. Feb 9, 2012 #26
    goods

    goods Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Well, most of the mounted Masdies didn't make it. I think the only ones left are rima-rima alba and amabilis. My coccinea and ignea are potted and still putting out new growths. Surprisingly, the Draculas I have are doing quite well. New growths on Phrag. besseae and Pleuro. eumecocaulon. That's pretty much it, plant wise.

    I've got three CFL bulbs in front of the glass now to increase the light somewhat. I'm still working on permanent lighting.
     
  7. Feb 9, 2012 #27
    Uluwehi

    Uluwehi angraecoids, dendrobiums and more Supporting Member

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    I love your enthusiasm, Zach!

    I tried to reply to your PM but your inbox is full, so it won't let me.
     
  8. Feb 9, 2012 #28
    goods

    goods Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I just cleared it Jacob. It should work now :)
     
  9. Jul 8, 2012 #29
    goods

    goods Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I think it's about time to update this thread. I came home today from a family trip for the 4th to a dead air conditioner and the thermometer reading of 95 degrees. Thankfully, the fridge worked perfectly. It was a nice 73 in there and the highest it ever got during the AC failure was 78, which is when I opened the door to water the plants. It quickly cooled back to 73 and is now sitting at 55 for the night.

    Also, I should be posting some first blooms from here in the near future. I'm seeing spikes on a Scaph. and a Zootrophion!
     
  10. Jul 18, 2012 #30
    Uluwehi

    Uluwehi angraecoids, dendrobiums and more Supporting Member

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    Glad to hear it has stabilised and that you have having some flower spikes :cool:
     
  11. Jul 18, 2012 #31
    Zack

    Zack Will work for plants Supporting Member

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    Zach, I'm having some difficulties keeping my cooler in the appropriate temperature range. If I keep the unit running, max temps are ~65° F, but if I leave it off temps can get up to 82° F. Do you use a timer or do you have another solution?

    EDIT: Just reread all the posts in here and I think I'll mount my fan right below a hole and leave the unit running and see how that goes (with a smaller hole for depressurizing as well).
     
  12. Jul 18, 2012 #32
    goods

    goods Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Zack, the hole I put in the side was merely for air exchange between the tank and the outside room. You already have ventilation holes to a degree I believe where Justin cut to place the lights. I wouldn't just cut into your set up because I don't believe it is known where the cooling components are. I know Justin had a hard time finding them.

    I've spoken to a mutual friend of Justin and myself, who helped with the ideas for this build. He told me that there was no central A/C in the apartment, and the tank was in an area that naturally heated up during the day, resulting in the necessity to run the cooler all day. I use a Zoomed Hygrotherm which has a day/night thermostat run on a light sensor. You can set the day temperature to something in the low 70's and then my night are at 55, but you may want to go a bit lower.
     
  13. Jul 18, 2012 #33
    Zack

    Zack Will work for plants Supporting Member

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    The current hole drilled is for a connection to a humidifier and Justin placed plexiglass on the holes for the lights, so there is not really much air exchange except for when I open the door. However, I think I'll get a hold of the Zoomed Hygrotherm you mentioned. It seems like the easiest solution.
     
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