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"New" orchid cabinet with drip wall.

Discussion in 'Growing Areas' started by Magnus A, Jan 7, 2013.

  1. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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    From my first post:

    I used ordinary clear Glass Silicon as glue.
    /M
     
  2. Zack

    Zack Will work for plants Supporting Member

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    Oops, sorry...I guess I was distracted by all the pictures :oops:
     
  3. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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    No problem Zack!
    I first glued the Hygrolon to the front of the panel, and then to the top and bottom by folding over the excess. No hygrolon on the back or sides of the mounts. After the glue dried I trimed off excess material with a pair of kitchen scissors.

    /M
     
  4. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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    Update: 3 month ofter last pictures and with a massive pruning of undesired moss last week!

    afarm9.staticflickr.com_8391_8627927602_f5ccac3e57_b.jpg
     
    lepetitmartien likes this.
  5. ZWUM

    ZWUM Bulbophiliac Staff Member

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    O wow! That looks superb. I have yet to get any of the moss mix on my hygrolon to germinate. Ill keep waiting.
     
  6. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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    Update on demand

    28th of October 2013, the cabinet have been running for about 15-16 month with only the LED as light source.

    afarm4.staticflickr.com_3776_10540206656_c42ae9e482_o.jpg
     
  7. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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  8. chicago chad

    chicago chad Active Member

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    Thanks Magnus. I appreciate the update. I personally have had better luck growing telipogoniflora over calodictyon. I must say that from the photo, your telipogoniflora has very nice sized flowers. My plant can be inconsistent with bloom size. Occasionally I will get one half the size or twice as big.

    So what do you do with a plant if the placement is too close or too far from the lights? Can you remove the entire piece of Epiweb that it is attached to and switch it out with another?

    And again, excellent setup. Great ingenuity. All it needs is.... MORE PLANTS!
     
  9. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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    I go slow with filling up this cabinet. I just want to see what species work in the environment.
    I noted your comment on Mika´s nano-vivarium that only needed water every 10th day. My setup only need to be filled up with 50 liter of water every second month...

    For moving plants the bakground is divided into slabs that easily can be moved around. The back wall is built up from 2*4 section containing 3*3 small slabs or 2*2 larger slabs. This system make it possibly to create several different setups with small and large slabs depending on how you combine the segments. The sides of the cabinet is built up by 2*2 of these sections.
    I will try to take pictures during the comming weekend.
     
  10. chicago chad

    chicago chad Active Member

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    Thanks Magnus. And yes, I neglected to consider your build with the duration of watering comment. When using the Epiweb, once a plant has rooted through it, what is the procedure if you wanted to divide the plant? Is it possible to remove it from the Epiweb, leaving a small amount of substrate that can be applied to a new mount or pot? This has always been my concern with using Epiweb. How efficient is it long term?
     
  11. Magnus A

    Magnus A Ph.D.

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    I just cut it in half where I would like to divide a plant!

    When dismounting a plant from a cork mount, most of the roots will be unaffected when the Epiweb slab are cut comparing with removing a plant completely from cork (where almost ALL roots will be harmed). Epiweb does not degrade over time and is UV-stable. There is no need to repot or remount due to substrate degradation as the material does not degrade.

    I though must say that I do not use Epiweb or Hygrolon for all my plants. I use the material that I think is the best for each particular plant under my three very different growing conditions (windowsill, large growing cabinet and drip wall cabinet).
     
  12. EvaJ

    EvaJ Member

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    I would like to ask, how is Den.cuthbertsonii to Hygrolon and if you grow a Den laevifolium to Hygrolon