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Planning an outside grow area

Discussion in 'Growing Areas' started by Octavio Salles, Dec 25, 2013.

  1. Octavio Salles

    Octavio Salles Member

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    Location:
    Ilhabela, SP, Brazil
    I'm planning on starting a growing area in the coffee shop of my wife here in Campinas, SE Brazil. The area is about 3 x 2.5m (9 x 8ft), open above and surrounded by walls and a glass slide door on one side. Since this is inside the shop it has to look beautiful, it's going to be an "inside" garden of the shop.

    My climate here is:
    Summer max averages: 30ºC (86ºF) - extremes of 38ºC (100ºF)
    Summer min averages: 19ºC (66ºF)
    Winter max averages: 25º (77ºF)
    Winter min averages: 14ºC (57ºF) - extremes of 04ºC (39ºF)

    Yearly precipitation average is 1.425mm, with a lot of rain concentrated during the spring and summer months, and a drier winter where it may not rain for a full month or more.

    My goal is to create a very lush garden, with a tropical look. I'm most interested in growing neotropical species, especially if they are from the Atlantic Rainforest, where I have constant access. I will probably intersperse the orchids with bromeliads and ferns. I plan on covering the place with some kind of shade to avoid the full force of midday sun, but it will remain subject to the summer storms that may last a few days.

    What kind of approach would you take here? Would you go for substrats that dry quickly? Or maybe put most orchids on tree branches and such as true epiphytes and fix them to the wall? Thanks for any help and sorry for the long post, just want to ger started on a good direction.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2013
  2. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Can you show us a few pictures of the space? Are the walls solid with no light penetration? Is the sliding glass door where people will be looking in or is there light from outside coming through it? Shading will be your first consideration. Are you thinking of a shade cloth or a wood lattice structure? Have you visited other orchid growers in your area to see what they are doing?
     
  3. Octavio Salles

    Octavio Salles Member

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    Marni, I will provide a picture by tomorrow. Yes the walls are solid and on the glass door there is a bit of light coming through, but not much as it leads to the shop interior. Most of the light comes from above, and I will build a "roof" of parallel wood slats, very close together so they provide half sun half shade. The walls I can use to put flowers on face east, north and west.

    I have visited orchid growers but mostly in more humid areas. I will visit one closer to here this week and see what he does.

    I'm trying to make a selection of easy orchid species to start with (preferably from my area more or less) that can grow well under these climate conditions. The humidity here can be quite low during the winter months, but since I will put a lot of plants there, like ferns and bromeliads, I think this will help in keeping the humidity in that small area quite a bit higher than outside, which from my begginers perspective is very important in growing orchids - I don't see many orchids in dry areas.
     
  4. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    You have probably already thought about the orientation of the slats which should be north to south so the shadows move over the plants. You might have better light with slats set farther apart and shade cloth stretched over them. The exposure with the walls is optimal as the door is the shady side. Good humidity is really important, but so is water quality, air movement, and temperature.
     
  5. Octavio Salles

    Octavio Salles Member

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    Location:
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    Yes the slats will be north-south. What distance do you suggest for the sloths with a shade cloth over them?

    As far as water, I think because of the heavy rains during the summer it might be better to plant most (if not all) orchids on wood pieces, branches, open baskets, etc. If I pot them I'm pretty sure I will have problems with rotting roots, unless maybe I use a very "light" substrate. During the winter I can just water them more regularly if needed, although since I will mostly be using local species, I will try to mimic the natural condition in the rainforest here, that is: warm and very wet summers and cool winters with water mostly as morning mist and sparse light rains.
     
  6. DPfarr

    DPfarr Well-Known Member

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    I hope you're planning on representing many of the fine Laelia purpurata varieties, as well as as many of the hadrolealia species as you can.
     
  7. Octavio Salles

    Octavio Salles Member

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    Location:
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    I have made a pre-list of orchids I will try to get initially from commercial orchidariums around here (most below are readily available), plus many others that I can just grab from the floor of the rainforest - there is always an abundance of broken branches full of orchids, bromeliads and such. This list is subject to many changes and I'm not even totally sure these species are good choices for my weather. But I think they are most all from SE Brazil. Because this garden is supposed to look good, I have added some species based on different characteristics... like some hanging flowers, some traditional ones, large, small, clumps, different leaf shapes, etc. Are these good to start with? Anything you think should be left out or included?

    Maxillaria picta
    Oncidium flexuosum
    Pleurothallis sonderana (too hot?)
    Bifrenaria harrisoniae
    Bifrenaria tyrianthina
    Brassavola tuberculata
    Dracula inaequalis (maybe? I would like to try one Dracula, even though I reckon they are harder to keep)
    Hoffmannseggella flavasulina
    Hoffmannseggella harpophylla
    Miltonia regnellii aurea
    Miltonia flavescens
    Miltonia spectabilis
    Epidendrum denticulatum
    Cattleya forbesii
    Cattleya harrisoniana
    Cattleya tigrina var. leopoldii
    Laelia purpurata (maybe in a couple different forms)
    Gomesa recurva
     
  8. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    The distance between the slats is going to depend on several things. If you use it with shade cloth the % of shade will make a difference. I suspect that you are far enough south that the intensity and hours of the sun will vary between summer and winter quite a bit as it does here. I need a lot less shade in the winter than in the summer and layer on shade cloth to keep the light as I want it. That is something you are going to have to experiment with.
     
  9. epiphyte

    epiphyte Member

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    Cattleya walkeriana and nobilior are excellent orchids for drier areas. So is Laelia speciosa...but it's from Mexico.

    Here's a good example of the tropical look...Dendrobium nobile on Palm. D. nobile isn't from Brazil either though.

    Perhaps this is the best example of the tropical look...Laelia purpurata, Oncidium, Bromeliads

    Regarding light...the concern would be to build your lath but then discover that it's too shady. Many orchids need quite a bit of light to bloom. So if you're going to make a mistake...make a mistake on the side of too much light. Then it's easy enough to add some shade cloth if you need to.

    Personally, I think attaching orchids to potted trees is a good strategy. You can easily prune the trees to make more light. Plus, it looks more natural to see the orchids growing directly on live trees.

    You should contact my friend Carlos in Brazil. He's very knowledgeable and willing to share!
     
  10. Octavio Salles

    Octavio Salles Member

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    Thanks for the ideas! Yeah I think it's wise to start with fewer (more spaced) slats and then add more or a shade cloth if needed.
     
  11. Ricardo

    Ricardo Slave of demanding bird

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    In the capital of my island, Puerto Rico, there are many small interior patios and gardens similar to the one you describe. The main challenge with growing orchids in these spaces is that the qualitily of light, for most of the day is just too low to allow blooming in many genera. The light hungry plants will grow, some will become impressive speciments, but will not bloom. Als o, depending how the sunlight hits the area, a part that is most of the year under deep gloom can, as the season change, be exposed to a quantity of full strenght sunlight that will damage the plants. The only plants that I have seen that consistently bloom under these conditions are certain Phalaenopsis. In fact I have seen places where the orchids were attached directly to the walls.
     
  12. cnslr81

    cnslr81 New Member

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    Sounds beautiful! A coffee shop with orchids must be a beautiful place---my favorites!