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Shade cloth mounting schemes

Discussion in 'Growing Areas' started by T. migratoris, May 29, 2010.

  1. May 29, 2010 #1
    T. migratoris

    T. migratoris Active Member

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    Location:
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    I've purchased 50% aluminet to cover the west wall & roof of the greenhouse. I have a couple of ideas on how to mount it using cables & clips but I can't quite decide on the best approach. I want to suspend it about 3" above the polycarb panels. The edges of the aluminet have been finished with sewn-on reinforcing tape & there are grommets every two feet or so around the perimeter.

    I'd appreciate knowing how others have mounted theirs - what works & what doesn't? Thanks in advance!
     
  2. May 29, 2010 #2
    Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    One of the best schemes I've ever seen involved an elevated framework of galvanized pipe that extended around the perimeter of the entire roof, plus ran down the ridge. There were also additional pipes running down the roof slope in the middle about 6' apart. Looking from one end, it was an inverted "V" on stilts. Nylon rope was woven through the grommets and "spiraled" around the pipe to hold the cloth securely.

    It was in south Florida and intended to be a permanent installation, but if I did that, I'd use bungee cords for faster removal and replacement.
     
  3. May 29, 2010 #3
    Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Aluminet has a tendency to drape a lot and I think that suspending it 3" is going to be pretty hard. I used to have it suspended 18" above the roof, but gave up on that years ago, I had too many problems. It does give more cooling, but proved to difficult for me. The nice thing about the aluminet is that it doesn't absorb and transmit heat the way that dark shade cloth does. Mine isn't edged, I just lay it on top and hold it down by running a clothesline weight cord through some butterfly clips (a lazy substitute for grommets) and tying the ends down to hooks or cleats I've attached to the gh. I've also used black binder clips to hold it on to corrugated single layer. It is very light and the amount of wind we get here in the summer doesn't require a lot of tie downs. It really is a wonderful material. It isn't the most attractive set up, but I live in a pretty funky neighborhood so nobody seems to care. Also, I add and subtract layers as the sun changes.
     
  4. May 29, 2010 #4
    T. migratoris

    T. migratoris Active Member

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    I like the pipe frame idea - sounds sturdy.

    I was worried about draping because this stuff's pretty floppy - you confirmed it Marni. I've focused on leaving a gap between the polycarb & shade cloth because of things I've read elsewhere but laying it directly on the greenhouse would certainly make life easier. A lot easier. Anyone else have experiences with aluminet laid directly on top of the polycarb panels?
     
  5. Jun 15, 2010 #5
    AHAB

    AHAB New Member

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    Location:
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    I have the 50% Aluminet pulled tight on top of the polycarb.
    The light inside is very, very nice and diffused.
    At first I thought I had screwed up because it seemed too dim.
    But it seemed dim because there was no more glare, and it is much cooler inside.

    I am sure it would be cooler raised up like Ray mentioned, but at the time I was recovering and I could not find anyone who would install it the way Ray mentioned...
    I had the guy use a channel lock type system to stretch it and keep it taught.
    Pulled tight also keeps the leaves and debris from collecting, the just blow off the taught surface.

    I think it is designed to be stretched as well, it opens up the weave a bit and allows more reflected light inside.

    I am happy with it and it should last for 3-5 years.

    Also, If you can use remnants it is much cheaper.

    Jim T
     
  6. Jun 15, 2010 #6
    Jon

    Jon Mmmm... bulbophyllum...

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    I didn't see your request for experience about Aluminet directly on the polycarb.

    I've never attempted to suspend mine above the poly, and it works just fine. We get some violent afternoon thunderstorms with wind gusts of 60+ mph in the summer, so I need to have it as securely fastened as possible. If I allowed air under it, I'd have issues. So, directly on the polycarb it is. It works just fine for me.
     
  7. Jun 15, 2010 #7
    Posey

    Posey New Member

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    Alright folks,,,call me stupid,,,how well does that work out with your automatic roof vents if you put it on taunt? Just something I've worried about ya know, LOL.
     
  8. Jun 15, 2010 #8
    T. migratoris

    T. migratoris Active Member

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    I went ahead & stretched it out directly on the polycarb. What a difference it's made in the inside environment. We're already in the mid-90s here & the cooling system's working less now than it was a few weeks ago when the temps were in the low 80s without the shade cloth. I appreciate the input - thanks guys.

    Yeah - auto roof vents would be trouble to be sure! I bolted mine shut & use exhaust fans instead.
     
  9. Jun 15, 2010 #9
    Posey

    Posey New Member

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    Thanks for the explanation. I don't use my greenhouse in the hot months anymore but the roof vents still do their thingie.
     
  10. Jun 15, 2010 #10
    AHAB

    AHAB New Member

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    I have a large gable vent at each end, they are tied into a temperature control and motorized. They are about 3-4 foot square.
     
  11. Jun 20, 2010 #11
    Paul J

    Paul J New Member

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    Like Jon in MN, violent t-storms are frequent in eastern SD [we wear out the storms before they get to MN! :)], so an elevated shade cloth will end up shredded and in one of the neighboring sections rather quickly. I use Aluminet laid flat against the poly on the outside where it has great wind resistance, but also hung loosely on the inside. The inside layer stays up all year. A peaked roof and gables with power vents on one end and thermostat regulated fans on the other move air the length of the G.H. Ceiling fans with rheostats redistribute air within. This with several short-timed mistings during the day provide considerable air movement and cooling. The only real problems come during the 95 degree or more periods.